Descending the wouri river in cameroon with a stand up paddle

28th October, the alarm goes off in the morning for an hour or so of following the track. We really are in dense bush and access to the river is not easy. We manage to beat a path through with machetes. But it is about 2 hours before the boards are finally in the water and loaded for the 3 or 4 days that this journey should last. The current is impressive from the bridge and we set off on our knees to get used to its rhythm. In fact, the current is really very strong with lots of eddies, but we manage not to fall. They result from the release of water that accumulates under the submerged trunks. We are surrounded by gigantic trees and places that are suitable for stopping are very rare. But we gradually settle into a rhythm.~All 4 of us are aware of the magic of the place. We have been preparing for this journey for several weeks. And here we are finally! ~We're really tiny on our boards. The river cuts a swathe through the tropical forest. The trees are gigantic and majestic. The sounds of the flora and fauna add a mysterious note. From the very first paddle strokes, we are isolated, as if we were in another world.~~We are quite comfortable on our paddleboards, despite the unforgiving current which will make us pay for any mistakes. Our progress is good and we are calm. But these first two hours of rowing are in addition to the two hours spent preparing in the bush under the blazing sun, including a good hour spent cutting back bamboo with machetes to access the river. Basically, it’s time to stop for lunch and build up strength again.

We find ourselves tackling the hardest part of the route without realising it. The current speeds up again and soon rapids with waves of between 50 cm and nearly one metre appear. The forest is too dense for us to get round on foot, so we have no alternative, but to go on. ~Within the first few meters, we are thrown off our boards. It is impossible to fight against the force of the water and the waves. Even with our weight and kneeling down on the board, we are thrown more than 50 centimetres into the air before we find ourselves in the water. As I fall, my leash undoes and the watertight bag containing the tents and equipment is no longer attached to the board. It is vital that we don’t lose it as it could jeopardize the rest of the route. I manage to catch hold of it, although the furious waters carry us off. But I have no choice but to let the board go. Loup and Quentin somehow manage to catch it, but not to control it. I went from paddleboarding to hydrospeed in a split second, but in the moment itself, nobody finds it funny. We’re not playing in the waves, we’re literally fighting just to keep our heads above water.~I can see my co-adventurers who are also struggling, holding tightly onto their board. Everyone manages to get themselves out of this first mess without any injuries or damage to equipment. ~But that was just the beginning. Throughout the afternoon, we alternately experience calm waters followed by these unbelievable rapids. We spend 2 long hours more often under the board than on it. We are swept away by the waves, unable to do anything other than try and go with the current. It is just like being in the drum of a terrifying, outsize washing machine. We just about have time to recover before we hit another stretch of rapids. It's exhausting.

The day before, when we looked at the map, we realised two things - firstly that we were no longer very far away and secondly that the river was widening. This reassured us that we shouldn’t have any more rapids. Good for morale!~Missed! The river widened, but we still had to cross three or four turbulent stretches before we finally caught sight of the famous bridge that marks arrival in Yabassi and lifts adventurers’ spirits. It only took an hour and a half to get there, but with a few difficult passages. So our break is welcome. If someone wanted to give up, which would be understandable, now is the moment to do so. But we spot the first dugout canoes, a sign that the waters will be calm from now on! So we ask the question: who wants to stop here? The answer is unanimous: we are not going to stop now, with the hardest part behind us! All 4 of us set back off on the water. The adventure completely changes. The river is very wide and very calm. The current enables us to make good progress. We are out of the primary forest. On the banks of the river, banana and orange plantations follow on from each other. We delight in the landscape on the horizon with its incredible colours. The sun’s reflections highlight this sumptuous spectacle before us, and we really make the most of being able to enjoy it. It's absolutely stunning!~At the water’s edge, locals prepare bags of bananas, plantains and oranges for the boatmen who will take them to market in Douala to sell. We are observing and learning about life on the river. However, we are still more than 60 km away from our arrival point.~We continue our journey, taking a break from time to time in the shade of the orange trees. Our journey is now much calmer and we are able to really relax and enjoy it. Subconsciously, the frightening experiences of the previous day reinforce this feeling of well-being at this particular point in time.~ 

The people who welcome us are very kind. The house is basic with earthen walls and floor, but it is shelter for the night. We tell them about our adventure and where we come from. They tell us about their lives as farmers and explain about transporting and trading oranges. They offer us beer, we share our sausage. It’s as simple as this, with a photo of the family with our boys as a bonus.

The evening is magical. Our hosts let us use 2 large beds with mosquito nets. We enjoy the sunset before going to bed. What a pleasure!

29th October, 2019 - Early morning alarm - 5am! Our hosts leave early to transport and sell the week’s banana and plantain harvest. They must lock their house. So of course, we fit in around them. We pack up our belongings and swallow a cup of coffee as we watch the sun rise over Mount Cameroon (4,000 m), which extends skyward on the horizon. Another stunning view!~ 

We're making even better progress than expected. After 7 hours of paddling, standing up on our boards, we reach the Wouri bridge, our finish line! We pass under the bridge, All 4 of us side-by-side, more than a little proud of our success. The range of emotions we have experienced are only equalled by their intensity. An extraordinary experience which leaves us with our heads full of memories and images.~21st November 2019 - Epilogue (and warning)~Going to the bush is not a trivial matter.~We have been back at our respective activities for less than a month. The adventure was a little more epic than expected, and not just over the 3 days it lasted. The rainforest has saved some surprises for us for later. The forest is hostile and sneaky...~A few days after our return, not one of us escaped from the effects of a tropical disease and the accompanying high fevers. After a few days of incubation, we suffered from malaria, typhoid fever or leptospirosis. Fortunately, we have been treated because these diseases can be very dangerous. In the end, we will have spent more time on our hospital beds than on our boards on the Wouri, but we have no regrets. Our adventure was fantastic. We understand how lucky we were to experience it, and to do so together!